(Or: How to Walk in the Footsteps of Hannibal, Wander Through 1,000 Years of History, and Sip Mint Tea in a Village That Looks Like a Painting)

Carthage: The Rise and Fall of Africa’s Greatest Ancient City

Why Carthage Matters

Phoenician settlers founded Carthage in the 9th century BCE. It grew into the wealthiest and most powerful city in the ancient Mediterranean, until Rome destroyed it in the Punic Wars. Today the ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A place that was once glorious, then gone.

One thing worth knowing: Carthage’s general Hannibal crossed the Alps with elephants to attack Rome. It did not end well for him.

How to Get to Carthage

• Location: 15 km northeast of Tunis, about 20 minutes by car.
• Taxi: Around €10 from Tunis.
• Train (TGM): From Tunis Marine to Carthage-Hannibal station. 15 minutes, ~ €0.50.
• Tour: Half-day tours from Tunis run around €30.

What to See in Carthage

1. Byrsa Hill

This was the heart of ancient Carthage. Climb it and you get panoramic views over the ruins and the Gulf of Tunis. While you’re up there, visit the Carthage Museum (~ €5). It holds Punic masks, Roman mosaics and enough context to make the ruins actually make sense.

2. The Punic Ports

These harbors made Carthage a superpower. The circular one was for warships. Hannibal’s fleet sailed from here. The commercial port handled traders from across the Mediterranean. After Rome destroyed Carthage, they copied the port design. That tells you everything.

3. The Roman Ruins

Rome razed Carthage in 146 BCE, then rebuilt it as a Roman city. The Antonine Baths are massive, second only to the Baths of Caracalla in Rome. Walk through the Roman Villas too. The mosaics are still intact.

4. The Tophet

A sacred site often linked to the most contested part of Carthaginian history. Some sources claim children were sacrificed here to Ba’al Hammon; others argue the remains point to a cemetery and symbolic burials. Either way, it’s a heavy place, worth visiting if you’re up for it, and easy to skip if you’re not. Reading up on the debate beforehand changes what you notice once you’re there.

Where to Eat Near Carthage

• Restaurant Le Golfe: Seafood with views of the Gulf of Tunis. Order the grilled octopus.
• Café des Délices: Casual, good Tunisian salads and fresh juice.

Carthage and Sidi Bou Said are close to each other. Combine them in one day and you will not regret it.
Carthage is quieter than people expect, which is exactly why it works.

The Medina of Tunis: A Walking Tour Through 1,000 Years of History

Why the Medina Matters

The Medina of Tunis is a UNESCO-listed maze of narrow streets, mosques and souks that date back to the 8th century. Arabs, Berbers, Andalusians and Ottomans all left their mark here. You can feel it in the architecture, the smells, the way the light falls through the alleyways.
At one point this was a center of Islamic intellectual life. Scholars and poets came from across the world. That history is still in the walls.

How to Get to the Medina

• Metro: Place de Barcelone station, Line 4.
• Taxi: Around ~ €3 from anywhere in Tunis.

Hire a guide for around €15 or download Google Maps offline. The alleys are genuinely confusing and that is part of the charm, but a guide saves time.

What to See in the Medina

1. The Zitouna Mosque

Built in 732 AD, this is the second largest mosque in Tunisia. The courtyard has marble columns and geometric tiles. If the minaret is open to non-Muslims, climb it. The view over the medina is worth it. Dress modestly, cover shoulders and knees. This should actually be a no-brainer.

2. The Souks

This is where Tunis comes alive. Spices, textiles, copper… everywhere you look. Go in the morning when it is less crowded.

• Souk El Attarine: Perfumes and essences. Stop and smell the amber and oud.
• Souk des Chéchias: Traditional red felt hats. They have been made here for centuries.
• Souk des Orfèvres: Gold and silver jewelry. Haggle. Start at half the asking price.

3. Dar Ben Abdallah

An 18th-century palace turned museum. It shows you how Tunisian elites actually lived, mosaics, fountains, lavish tiles in the harem quarters. Entry is ~ €3 and worth every cent.

4. The Al-Zaytuna Madrasa

A 17th-century Islamic school that still functions as a center of learning. The library holds ancient manuscripts on science and philosophy. Ask to see the roof. The view over the medina is one of the better ones you will find.

5. The Hidden Courtyards

Behind unmarked doors, tucked away from the crowds, you find these quiet courtyards. Dar Lasram is a restored 19th-century house turned cultural center. Dar El Jeld has a stunning Andalusian courtyard you can visit for free. And sometimes, if you knock on a wooden door, a homeowner will let you peek inside (proceed with caution, especially when traveling alone).

Where to Eat in the Medina

• Café des Nattes: A hidden café. Mint tea and pastries.
• Dar El Jeld Restaurant: Fine dining in a palace. Order the lamb couscous.
• Fondouk El Attarine: Rooftop views of the medina. Good for lunch.

Try lablabi while you are here. It is a chickpea soup and it is Tunis’s best street food. Simple, filling, and nothing like what you expect.
It’s magical, but it can be a lot. Give yourself permission to take breaks.

Sidi Bou Said: Tunisia’s Blue and White Village by the Sea

Why Sidi Bou Said Looks Like a Painting

Perched on a cliff over the Mediterranean, Sidi Bou Said is all cobalt-blue doors, whitewashed walls, and bougainvillea. It looks like a Greek island dropped into North Africa. The village was shaped by Andalusian refugees in the 12th century, and the blue and white color scheme was introduced by a Baron in the 1920s. It is now protected by law.

How to Get to Sidi Bou Said

• Location: 20 km north of Tunis.
• Taxi: Around €15 from Tunis.
• Train (TGM): From Tunis Marine to Sidi Bou Said station. 25 minutes, €0.50.
• Tour: Half-day tours from Tunis run around €25.

Go in the late afternoon. The light at that hour is something else for photos.

What to See in Sidi Bou Said

1. The Streets

Every door, window and alley is painted cobalt and white. Get lost on purpose. Each door is different. Look for the Street of the Cats, there are cats everywhere and they do not care about your schedule.

2. Café des Nattes

The best spot for mint tea with a view of the Mediterranean. Order the mint tea with pine nuts and a brik à l’œuf, a Tunisian pastry with egg inside, crispy and good. Sit on the terrace. Take your time.

3. Dar El Annabi

A 19th-century palace that shows traditional Tunisian life. The courtyard has mosaics and fountains. The rooftop gives you panoramic views of the village and the sea. Entry is ~ €3.

4. The Cliffside Walk

A path along the cliff with views of the Mediterranean and Tunis below. Walk to the lighthouse. That is the best spot for sunset. The sky turns pink and the sea goes quiet. It is one of those moments you do not plan for but remember for a long time.

5. The Artisan Shops

Pottery, textiles, jewelry. Blue and white ceramics and handwoven rugs. Bargain politely and start at half the asking price. Most sellers expect it.

Where to Eat in Sidi Bou Said

• Restaurant Le Café des Délices: Seafood with views of the village.
• Au Bon Vieux Temps: Traditional Tunisian dishes in a historic house.
• Pâtisserie des Nattes: Best pastries in town. Try the makroudh, a date-filled pastry.

Order a fricassé too, a Tunisian sandwich, spicy and crunchy. It is the kind of thing you eat standing up and then immediately want another one.
Yes, it’s photogenic. No, you’re not the first person to think so, go late and you’ll still love it.

Practical Tips Before You Go

1. You can do all three in one day. Carthage in the morning, the Medina in the afternoon, Sidi Bou Said at sunset. It is a full day but a good one.
2. Hire a guide in the Medina. Worth around €15 to €20. The alleys are a maze and a good guide shows you things you would never find alone.
3. Wear comfortable shoes. Cobblestones and hills everywhere. Not the day for flip-flops.
4. Eat the street food. Brik, lablabi, makroudh. Do not skip this.
5. Dress modestly in the Medina. Cover shoulders and knees. It is a sign of respect and locals notice.

Quick Answers to Common Questions

Can I visit all three in one day?
Yes. Carthage in the morning, the Medina in the afternoon, Sidi Bou Said at sunset. That is the order that works best.

Is the Medina safe?
Yes. Stick to the main streets and avoid empty alleys after dark.

When is the best time to visit?
Spring (March to May) or fall (September to November). The weather is mild and the crowds are manageable.

Can I take photos in the Medina?
Yes, but ask before photographing people or the inside of mosques.

How do I get from Carthage to Sidi Bou Said?
Taxi for around €10 or the TGM train for around €1.

Why This Trip Stays With You

Tunisia is a country of layers. Ancient ruins, medieval medinas and a cliffside village that looks like it was painted by hand. In Carthage you walk where Hannibal walked. In the Medina you get lost in a thousand years of history. In Sidi Bou Said you sit in a blue doorway and watch the sun go down over the Mediterranean. As a Latin student and history nerd this was by far my highlight of my Tunisia travel.

Pack your camera, wear good shoes and go. You will figure out the rest when you get there.

P.S. Want more Tunisia tips? Sign up for my newsletter Dream. I’ll send you my calm, no-drama Tunisia notes: a one-day Tunis route you can copy, what’s worth paying for, what’s not and the small logistics that save you from spending your trip negotiating with Google Maps.

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P.P.S. Got a favorite spot in Tunisia or a memory from a trip? Share it in the comments. I am always adding to my list.